The under-skirt is sewed on at the waist and flares. Note the guide lines of the
under-skirt as they run up to the waist line.
The over-skirt is also sewed on at the waist but flares more than the underskirt as it descends. XX is the edge of the fold and hangs straight down. The " square " is the inside crease of the fold, which also hangs straight down from the belt, the lower part only being exposed to view.
Begin with the curved line in the front of the skirt (that is, after the form is well drawn), then draw XX down from the waist and curve it around. It descends as it goes until it almost touches the under fold (square), where it comes out from under the skirt. The under fold hangs down, curves around, descends until it almost touches the next XX, etc. Note the guide lines of one of the plaits as it runs up to the waist line.
The other side of this skirt being gathered, the lines of the fullness at the top fall down between the lines of the fullness which run up from the bottom.
Note how the over-skirt fits around the under-skirt, descending toward the back.
THE PANIER
If the student has been successful with the lines of Fig. G, the panier will be easy to draw.
The lines of the panier (Fig. H) are the same as in the over-skirt (Fig. G), but the panier projects at the hips in a ruffle effect while the over-skirt hangs straight down.
This skirt is drawn three-quarter view, which shows the full panier on the near side and but little of it on the far side. Note how different the lines look on the far side, as you see but little of the under surface of the goods.
THE PUFFED SKIRT
The lines for the puff are somewhat different and yet somewhat the same as in Fig. G, as the lines curl around and fit into each other. A skirt that is puffed at the hips will extend past the normal skirt line. Note these lines as seen through the puff, but instead of the ruffle effect, as seen on the panier, the goods is drawn in again, hence the puff. The puff means that the goods is gathered and is very full, therefore the goods beneath the puff is also very full, as the lines indicate in Fig. 7. {The lines under the puff are heavier, caused by the shadow cast by the puffy Note tbe crispness and the sharpness of the lines as they curl around and fit into each other.
SKIRT WITH YOKE AND TUCKS