THE RUFFLED WAIST
In Fig. P we have a waist with fullness but not bloused as in Lesson II. The fullness, being gathered at the belt, flares in a ruffle effect below it.
The right side of the belt laps over the left, past the center line. Make it definite which side of the belt is on top.
The ruffle is placed around the neck and falls in a jabot down the front of the waist, the lines being the same as the lines of the over-skirt. (Lesson III, Fig. G.) Here, as in the over-skirt, you observe the wrong side of the material.
In placing the ruffle and jabot, draw the small V for the neck, then the large V for the width of the jabot. Note how the lines of the large V curve around the form.
After ascertaining the width of the ruffle and jabot, draw them within these guide lines, applying the principles of Lesson III, Fig. G.
Like the panier (Lesson III, Fig. H) you see but little of the under surface of the goods on the far side.
The band on the sleeve fits tightly around the arm and is a continuation of the
guide lines of the sleeve form, the sleeve flaring above and below it.
THE BENT SLEEVE
The bending of a sleeve causes it to wrinkle. Study the bent sleeve and note the wrinkles which lie mainly on the inside. At the elbow the wrinkles curve around the form toward the outside.
COLLAR 1
Collar 1 is a stiff collar turning over and standing away from the neck. Be sure to fit it around the neck, but do not draw the lines too near it.