LESSON VII
THE LARGE COAT
A form in a large coat has the appearance of being somewhat stouter than a form in just a dress, but in reality it is the coat that gives this effect.
Draw the form the same size as for a dress. Place the coat upon it according to previous instructions, but let the coat touch the form on the shoulders, chest, and bust only. Elsewhere it hangs well away from the form, as designated by the guide lines seen through the coat.
As the collar is high, standing well up at the back of the neck, the near side view of the V is a straighter line than the reverse curve in Lesson II, Fig. C. The large collar breaks on the shoulder, but do not bring the break below the shoulder line.
The belt being very wide and standing well away from the form, the curve is somewhat less than a belt which fits the form tightly.
When drawing the near side of the collar to the opening, do not touch the line of the opening, thus giving the collar the appearance of being turned over.
For a double-breasted coat, all buttons must be an even distance from the center line and evenly spaced, as shown by the guide lines.
As the coat sets away from the form, the fullness above and below the belt does not cling to it and does not follow the form as in Lesson V, Fig. P, but hangs straight up and down, the fullness above and below the belt being on a line.
The bottom of a coat should be drawn
the same as the bottom of a dress. Be careful to make the opening at X prominent.
Study the separate belt at the bottom of the lesson plate. Place the point directly in the middle, having the diagonal lines even. Note the vertical guide line where the point ends. Make one side of the belt lap well over the other.